Beer
may be good for you
Studies
suggest key is
moderation, not binge drinking
By Ken Wells
THE WALL STREET
JOURNAL
Aug.
13 - Here's a good bar joke: Beer is good for you - even better
for you than red wine.
HERE'S WHAT'S funnier: It could actually be true .
After more than 20 years of research and scores of studies on the effects of
moderate alcohol consumption on health, beer is slowly bubbling to the top
as a beverage that not only lifts spirits but delivers protection against
major ailments such as heart attacks, stroke, hypertension, diabetes and
dementia.
The data seem so compelling that the National Beer Wholesalers Association,
an Alexandria, Va., trade group representing the nation's beer distributors,
recently put on an oxymoronic sounding "health and beer" seminar
and put out a press release that declared: "Eat right, exercise and
drink a beer a day may be the way to keep the doctor away."
Julie Bradford, editor of All About Beer Magazine, says slightly less
effervescently: "Well , we're not saying that beer is the new wonder
drug or suggesting that people take two beers and call us in the
morning." But evidence for beer's healthy side effects - assuming
moderate consumption - is strong enough to cause champions of beer like Ms.
Bradford to start insisting that the wine folks put a cork in their claims
that Beaujolais is superior to Bud.
Ms. Bradford's magazine, published in Durham, N.C., and delivered to 25,000
subscribers every other month, is an unabashed beer booster, but she has
company in more dispassionate places. Norman D. Kaplan, a professor of
internal medicine at the University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center in
Dallas, has studied alcohol's impact on health as part of his 40 years of
research into the causes and treatment of hypertension. He concludes that
"the benefits of drinking moderate amounts of alcohol is well beyond
contention."
As for beer's specific virtues, Dr. Kaplan cites two recent large-scale
studies: in one, a look at 70,000 female nurses showed that those who drank
moderate amounts of beer had less hypertension than did nurses who drank
either wine or spirits. He also points to a survey of 128,934 adults in the
Kaiser Permanente managed-care system. It showed that male beer drinkers
among the group were at a statistically significant lower risk of
coronary-artery disease than were men who drank red wine, white wine or
spirits.
Dr. Kaplan says new evidence also suggests that beer, because of mechanisms
that "are not all clearly understood," may help increase bone
density, thus decreasing risk of fractures. And it also could raise by 10%
to 20% the so-called "good cholesterol" levels in some people,
thereby helping to ward off coronary-heart disease and related afflictions
such as dementia. Beer, he adds, is also rich in B-vitamins and folates (a
form of water-soluble B-vitamin found in green leafy vegetables), both of
which help keep homocysteine blood levels in check. Homocysteine is a
chemical that, in elevated amounts, has been linked to an increased risk of
heart disease.
For those reasons, Dr. Kaplan says, "beer drinking has equal or perhaps
more benefit" than wine or spirits. As for the wine claims: "The
wine people have done a major snow job" in peddling the notion that
wine is superior to beer or spirits, he says.
Considering that there are an estimated 80 million regular beer drinkers in
America, the emergence of beer as a health palliative is a significant
public-relations boost for the $55 billion-a-year beer industry. Of course,
beer makers are constrained from directly touting any such benefits on
labels or in advertising, hence the efforts by trade groups like the NBWA to
spread the word.
But before Joe Six Packs rush out to quaff a few in celebration, there are
major caveats. For one, researchers define moderate drinking as one drink a
day for women and up to two a day for men (a drink itself being a 12-ounce
beer, a five-ounce glass of wine or 1.5 ounces of distilled spirits.)
Conversely, studies show that binge drinking - the consumption of six or
more drinks in a day - offers no benefits and puts drinkers at increased
risk for obesity and certain types of cancers, liver failure and stroke.
Moreover, the way beer is often consumed in the U.S. - in heavy-drinking
venues like football games or frat parties, for example - may make beer's
health claims less useful than they might appear. "The binge factor
doesn't help your heart at all" and can even lead to immediate
problems, such as heart arrhythmias, says Margo Denke, a medical colleague
of Dr. Kaplan's at Texas Southwestern Medical School who has done her own
health-and-alcohol studies.
Nevertheless, when it comes to beer's general health benefits, Dr. Denke
says, "the science makes sense; beer is distilled from hops and barley
and some of the beneficial nutrients are concentrated and passed
along."
Eric Rimm, an associate professor of epidemiology and nutrition at Harvard's
School of Public Health, believes the benefits of moderate drinking may come
from the ethanol component in alcohol. "True, beer has B vitamins, but
a single beer provides perhaps 2% to 6% of the recommended daily
requirement. To think you can get your RDA of that from beer is probably
inappropriate," he says.
But Dr. Rimm says the prevailing thinking is that ethanol has significant
antithrombotic or anticlotting effects similar to aspirin: Health experts,
for perhaps a decade, have recommended an aspirin-a-day regimen for people
over 50 to help prevent strokes and heart disease.
More recently, Dutch and Danish researchers looked at beer and wine side by
side in studies; in the Dutch sample, in which participating men drank four
glasses of either beer, wine or spirits over three months, beer seemed to be
better at helping to control homocysteine levels; a similar Danish study
found no distinguishable differences.
The wine folk seem unperturbed by the encroachment of beer into what was
once their exclusive PR domain. "We stand by the studies" that
link moderate wine consumption and health, says Juanita Duggan, head of the
Wine and Spirits Wholesalers of America, a Washington, D.C., trade group.
"And besides, our products will always taste better than theirs."
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